Cycling through the village early in the morning to avoid the heat and the crowd seemed like a splendid idea. However, with the sun rising at 6 and locals getting up even before that, my 7 am ride was sweaty due to both the temperature and the scooter traffic. As a silver lining, I had the chance to marvel at the road still adorned with decorative bamboo poles left from Galungan — a celebration that takes place every 210 days following the Pawukon calendar, one of the two calendars used in Bali. Locals describe Galungan as the triumph of dharma over adharma, a symbolic battle of ‘right vs. wrong’. It is also believed to be the time when ancestral spirits pay Earth a visit. The celebration concludes with Kuningan, marking the departure of these spirits. One of the enduring decorations to commemorate the event is the archetypal penjors, representing prosperity in Balinese Hindu culture. They are set up on the day of the ceremony and often stand for weeks thereafter. The bamboo pole itself symbolically embodies Mount Agung, Bali’s most sacred mountain, thought to be the spiritual home of Balinese ancestors.

Little did I know that this picturesque scene was just a prelude to the unique encounters awaiting me on the Island of Gods. Slightly wary of the stray dogs, I pedalled with caution, only to later realise that they couldn’t care less about me or anyone else. This likely stemmed from exhaustion caused by the heat, hunger, and dehydration. At the same time, it reflected the general temperament of creatures on the Island of Gods — harmless, peaceful, and well-willing. When it came to locals, every encounter was filled with smiles and a contagious sense of joy that was simply uplifting. In fact, as a Westerner, initially, I had a feeling that I was surpassing the daily limit of smiles. Needless to say, upon my return to Europe, I received a lot of not-so-cheerful looks of “what are you smiling at?”.